hello there
Six years into surfing and I've got more salty scribblings and spreadsheets than style. So instead of going pro, I built this project to make something tangible out of all the bliss and busted waves. Inside you'll find meandering diary entries, obsessively tracked stats, and a map plotting where my love affair with mama ocean has taken me.
March Brain Snack
"What was consistent was a certain serenity that followed a rigorous session. It was physical, this postsurf mood, but it had a distinct emotionality too. Sometimes it was mild elation. Often it was a pleasant melancholy. After particularly intense tubes or wipeouts, I felt a charged and wild inclination to weep, which could last for hours. It was like the gamut of powerful feelings that can follow heartfelt sex."
— William Finnegan in Barbarian Days (2016)
Memories
