hello there
Six years into surfing and I've got more salty scribblings and spreadsheets than style. So instead of going pro, I built this project to make something tangible out of all the bliss and busted waves. Inside you'll find meandering diary entries, obsessively tracked stats, and a map plotting where my love affair with mama ocean has taken me.
2025 stats coming in hot 🔥
July Brain Snack
"One must be available, flexible, always in shape. A storm could break for one day and produce the greatest four hours your reef has seen in a decade, only to pick up the next and blow the waves apart. One comes to welcome serendipity into the patterns of daily life, accept the fleeting nature of happiness, and avoid all unnecessary time constraints."
— Daniel Duane in Caught Inside (1996)
Memories
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