hello there
Six years into surfing and I've got more salty scribblings and spreadsheets than style. So instead of going pro, I built this project to make something tangible out of all the bliss and busted waves. Inside you'll find meandering diary entries, obsessively tracked stats, and a map plotting where my love affair with mama ocean has taken me.
2025 stats coming in hot 🔥
June Brain Snack
"Most surfers don’t want real jobs, at least not full-time ones. People think we’re lazy — but that’s not really it. After all, it’s a time-consuming business and kind of a lot of work to know when the surf will be good, to get there, and to be ready to ride it."
— Jaimal Yogis in Saltwater Buddha (2007)
Memories
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